Above: Collection Italian American Museum of Los Angeles. photo by Andy Jacobsohn/Dallas News
The Feast of the Seven Fishes, a beloved Italian American Christmas Eve tradition, has been celebrated by many Delaware families for generations. Rooted in Southern Italian Roman Catholicism, particularly in regions like Naples, Sicily, and Calabria, this ritualistic repast is part of the broader Italian tradition of “La Vigilia,” which involves abstaining from meat on the eve of certain religious holidays.
Fish was permitted, and therefore became the star of Christmas Eve dinner. The number seven is rooted in Catholic symbolism, frequently appearing in the Bible and Catholic traditions. Considered a number of perfection, associated with the seven days of creation, the seven sacraments, and the seven deadly sins, the number associated with the feast’s name has multiple interpretations.
Joe Rossi, chef-owner of Rossi’s Ristorante in Wilmington, humorously speculated, “I don’t know. Maybe because there’s seven days in a week?” (The News Journal, 1997). Claudio Sandolo, owner of Spasso Italian Grill in Wilmington, offered another perspective: “In Ponza, where the Sandolo clan is from, seven fish represent the seven virtues and the seven hills of Rome” (The News Journal, 2000).
In Italy, the full feast name is “La Vigilia di Natale” (the Christmas Eve vigil) or “Il Cenone” (the big dinner). Unlike the strict adherence to seven types of fish seen in Italian American celebrations, the number of fish dishes in Italy can vary. Some regions might prepare as many as 13 fish dishes, representing Jesus and his 12 apostles.
The types of fish used in Italy depend on the region and local availability. Baccalà (salt cod) is a staple in many areas, along with eel, which is considered lucky. Other common fish include anchovies, sardines, dried shrimp, smelts, calamari, octopus, and shellfish like mussels and clams.
Italian immigrants brought this custom to America in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The feast evolved in the New World, adapting to local fish and American tastes while retaining the core meaning of family gathering and religious observance. The emphasis on exactly seven fishes became more pronounced in Italian American culture, possibly to create a more structured identity in their new home.
As Luigi Vitrone, owner of Pastabilities in Wilmington’s Little Italy, explained, “They feast on fish on Christmas Eve because many of Jesus’ apostles were fishermen” (The News Journal, 2007). He added, “The fish part is important because during this time Catholics are fasting and can’t eat meat on Fridays. This way if Christmas Eve falls on a Friday, the feast can go on.”
The Catholic Church originally encouraged this meatless meal as a form of penance, “so the body would be cleansed for the feasting that would follow from Christmas Day to Epiphany,” according to Irena Chalmers, author of ‘An Edible Christmas.’
The specific dishes served during the feast can vary depending on family traditions and regional influences. Chef Dan Cosentino of Ristorante Trevi in Brandywine Hundred explained the symbolic meaning behind some common dishes: “Shellfish is served first because it was the food of the poor. Baccala comes next because it was the mainstay of the poor. Squid, known to Italians as calamari, follows because the tentacles represent the many different teachings of Christ throughout the world” (The News Journal, 1997).
“We had it after midnight Mass,” Joe Rossi recalled of his childhood experiences. “My brother and I were altar boys, and my mother would have all the food ready when we came home” (The News Journal, 1997).
Wilmingtonian Cari DeSantis shared her family’s typical menu with the News Journal in 2002: “They’ll likely start with appetizers of anchovy salad, shrimp, and oysters. Lobster will follow as the main course, accompanied by fried calamari, baked flounder, and pasta with clam sauce.” She smiled, “It’s funny, children don’t like fish much, but our tradition is the highlight of the holidays for them.”
The feast is often a lengthy affair, designed to keep everyone awake until midnight Mass. Chef Luigi Vitrone described his childhood experience: “My family is from Naples, and when I was young, our Feast of the Seven Fishes would start with clams and mussels sautéed in olive oil and garlic, and served with a white wine or tomato sauce. Next was a soup, like clam chowder but with mussels, shrimp, calamari, and scallops too. Whether you get that soup in a cream or tomato broth depends on where you are, much like New England vs. Manhattan-style clam chowder. The next course was a cold salad with calamari and octopus, followed by pasta topped with crab sauce” (The News Journal, 2007).
“After church, it was back to the table, where fish like swordfish, sole, salmon, and red mullet were baked in tomato sauce and served together on a large platter. Dessert was usually simple, just oranges, tangerines, almonds, and cashews. Not that anyone would have room for dessert after all that food!”
In recent years, some Delaware residents have adapted the tradition to suit modern tastes and preferences. News Journal columnist Patricia Talorico shared 2008 plans for reviving her family’s feast:
“Tonight, I plan on making Ina Garten’s seafood gratin recipe. I’ll be making a few tweaks. Garten’s recipe calls for halibut, which is not in season, so the great guys behind the counter at Feby’s Fishery in Wilmington suggested that I substitute rockfish. I’m also adding shrimp, lobster, and maybe scallops to this one-dish casserole.”
Talorico also noted the challenge of including all seven fish: “My planned menu only has six fishes so far. (Anchovies in a Caesar salad and mini crabcakes are also part of the meal.) I’m short one fish – few in my family like smelts, eel, or dried salt cod, seafood that is commonly served during the feast.”
Many Delaware Italian American families continue to celebrate Christmas Eve with the Feast of the Seven Fishes, whether adhering strictly to convention or putting a modern spin on the spread. They keep this rich culinary heritage alive for future generations.
Talorico aptly summarized, “A love of tradition – and what swims in the sea – is part of the allure of a Christmas Eve Feast of the Seven Fishes” (The News Journal, 2008).
